gore=godet, one on each side to hip/waist
diamond gusset under arm
Put it on inside out and have someone pin/staple in the parts where it's too baggy.
Sandra Betsina
Costume Technicians' Handbook--Ingam & Covey
With lacing, put a placket behind the laces. There should be a 1-2" gap between the laces
stays--rigaline, covered boning, along each edge
lacing stays, use long-shanked grommets
Use easel chalk.
Simplicity 9891, with the original version, people can't move their arms.
Hang a cloak for a week before you hem it, especially if it's wool.
www.catscratchalley.com